sole

I did some online research about finishes and found that there is a trade-off between ease of application and quality
of finish. The higher quality finishes retain their original color but require care when applying to avoid brush strokes.
They are typically sensitive to temperature and humidity when applied. Since I am working during the winter layup
period, it is very difficult to control temperature and humidity. An easy to apply finish will dry quickly, not require
sanding between coats, and will pull brush strokes out between coats. These are oil modified urethanes, the most
common of which is Minwax. Most of these yellow with age, a process called ambering. This is the result of the oil
oxidizing with age. The interior finish in my boat shows signs of ambering. In some areas, the finish is dark brown. I
consider this kind of finish to be too dark for my taste. There are some custom finishes that use special oils and resist
ambering. One of these finishes is Ultimate Sole.

After letting the sanding sealer dry overnight, I buffed it with 220 grit sandpaper and applied the first coat of
Ultimate Sole varnish using a good foam brush. Directions stated that the varnish would dry in about 5 hours, but I
found that it took more than 24 hours for the first coat to dry and the second coat refused to dry. I stripped off the
finish and repeated using Epifanes and got the same result. I stripped it again and waited for the weather to warm up
before repeating with Ultimate Sole finish and got great results. The finish is clear in color and very durable. This
leaves the holly white and the teak light brown. I can't describe the difference that the finish makes to the cabin. It
brightens up the cabin and makes the whole cabin glow. Unfortunately, it highlights remaining flaws in the forward
half of the cabin sole that didn't resurface. I stripped and refinished that section using the same finish used for the
new sole, but results are less than I had hoped for. The paint stripper used to remove the old finish wicked up under
the masking tape and damaged the finish on the lower inch along the bulkheads. I ended up adding floor molding to
cover the damaged bulkhead finish.

Click on photos below for a larger image.