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Engine Selection Criteria (2)
4. Optional mount for refrigeration compressor -Although some engines offer a refrigeration mount for their engine, none of them
offer an out-of-the-box high-capacity alternator mount and compressor mount unless some custom fabrication is done.

5. More power - I was never able to cruise at hull-speed under power. The computed hull speed of the '424 is 7.5kts. I've observed
that the actual hull speed is about 8.3kts. I suspect that the boat squats when pushed hard, providing a longer effective water line
than the 33'8" spec. I typically cruise at around 6.5kts. Full-throttle would drive the boat at 7.3kts at 2200 rpm, if I could take the
noise and vibration for any length of time.

I never liked running the engine hard for long periods of time. I estimated that having 20% more power would let me run at a
satisfactory speed. The boat was slightly overproped, so I was never able to achieve full rated power from the engine. I calculated
that I was getting about 47 hp out of a possible 53hp. I want a power reserve too, so I added an additional 20% to the power
budget. This works out to about 70hp. I decided to consider any engine that was between about 65 and 85hp.

6. Full instrument panel - Idiot lights are great, but in my opinion, they are only a backup for full gauges. At a minimum, I require a
tachometer, engine hours, oil pressure, coolant temperature, and fuel level. I also require an engine alarm.

7. Recent design - Having been bit by an out of production engine, I am reluctant to consider an engine that might be anywhere
near the end of its production cycle. I don't know how much longer I may own my boat, but 30 years is not out of the question.

Even though I don't have to pay someone by the hour, I'm not anxious to take on more work than necessary to complete the job.
Having an engine that has an exhaust system that comes off the front of the engine and with mounts that are at a height similar to
the W-60 would make my job easier. All of the engines I looked at required a 3 inch exhaust system. The smaller W60 exhaust
would have to be replaced no matter which engine I selected. As long as the mounting configuration of the replacement provids
enough room to route the exhaust hose from the back of the engine aft to the water-lift, having a back mounted exhaust system
isn't a problem. The main consideration was how much rework would be needed for the engine bed and how to connect the
alternator and compressor.

My particular boat had some maintenance items that had to be corrected no matter which engine is chosen. This made selectioin
easier since there was some work needed regardless.
1. The engine bed was, in my opinion, poorly done at the factory. The bed showed signs of sagging outward. This caused the
engine mounts to toe out. I'd have to either strengthen the existing bed or remove and replace the bed.
2. The throttle cable from the original engine was damaged when a belt broke. It needed replacement.
3. My V-drive is tired and should be replaced soon. They come with different gear ratios. This means that I could change the ratio
in my V-drive to accommodate an engine with a different engine speed.

There are additional issues unique to my situation that influenced my decision.
1. I have a new propeller shaft and coupling. This doesn't directly impact my decision, but it would be a consideration were I to
change propellers.
2. I have a folding propeller that is in very good condition. This is slightly oversized. I could have the blades replaced with a
different size for about $1000, but I could save this expense if I can mate a new engine to this propeller.
3. My Velvet Drive transmission was recently rebuilt. Although I could probably put it on e-bay and recover some of these
expenses. It seems like a waste to replace this perfectly good transmission.