transmission

As noted earlier, I purchased the engine with a bell-housing configured for the Velvet Drive. One would think that since Mac Boring
distributes both Yanmar engines and the VD transmission, they would know exactly how to configure the engine. There is no provision
for a transmission cooler. They suggest adding one to the seawater side of the cooling system. After I received the engine, I found the
spacer missing. They forgot to the item but shipped it at once. After I received it, I found an error regarding the width of the spacer.
I needed a 1-inch spacer, or more correctly two half-inch spacers. I ordered yet a second spacer ($120). Since I ordered the engine
"with a VD bell housing" rather than by part number, I expected them to ship the missing part without charge. After all, this was their
error, not mine. They refused to ship the part without receiving additional payment for the second spacer. I consider this to be a
deceptive practice and will not recommend their services. I considered taking legal action against Mac Boring, but decided that it was
too small an issue to fight over.

Another problem with the bell housing is the lack of fasteners. They machined the bell housing with metric threads rather than English
threads. This means that I couldn't reuse fasteners from the old engine. At first thought, this probably seems like an easy problem
solved by a trip to the hardware store, but the lower two fasteners are long studs, not bolts. Studs must be used because it would be
almost impossible to align the six bolt holes if you had to hold the weight of the transmission while trying to align the holes. Instead,
the lower two fasteners are used as guides to align the transmission. These studs need to be five inches long. It is difficult enough to
find 10MM bolts, let alone studs that long. You can't even find metric bolts long enough to cut and thread. I ended up buying 3/8 inch
bolts instead. I cut off the head and tapped one end with the appropriate metric thread. I don't like having studs that are metric on
one end and English on the other, but I really had no choice.

The die won't take a bite unless the stud end gets tapered on a grinder. Threading the studs was easy once I figured out how to taper
the ends using a drill and bench grinder.

I purchased a heat exchanger from Great Bay with the appropriate sized 1" hose barbs. I'm not happy with this design. It is seawater
cooled, yet lacks a proper clean-out. I'll probably have to back-flush it to clean it. I'm also concerned about the possibility of getting
seawater in the transmission should the heat exchanger fail. There are no zincs in any of the heat exchangers. In spite of my concerns,
the task of mounting it ended up being easier than I first anticipated. I reused a heat exchanger mounting bracket from the oil cooler
on my W60. The end was cut off to make it shorter. I cut and drilled an angle bracket to mount the heat exchanger to the face of the
bell housing.

Hydraulic hoses for the heat exchanger were reused from the old engine. These hoses were too short. It is a simple and inexpensive
task to cut off the old rubber hose and replace it with longer hose. The material is available at most automotive stores for about 20
cents an inch. I made them 22 inches long each. The hose is supposed to attach without any clamps. This didn't look strong enough to
me, so I added hose clamps. The old hoses attached with 45 degree elbows. I used 90 degree elbows instead.

Opening the cooling system required that I drain the coolant first. In spite of my best efforts, I lost quite a lot on the garage floor.
Yanmar identifies a specific coolant for their turbo engines. Havoline® Extended Life Coolant, DEX-COOL® Code number 7994, colour:
ORANGE, available at Walmart.

In all, I spent about 8 hours mounting the transmission.

Click on the photo below for a larger image.