Removal

Before removing the old engine, I took some measurements and photos that showed the position of the engine brake disk relative to
the engine pan. If I mount the new engine so that the brake is in precisely the same position as before, alignment of the v-drive input
shaft would be correct. Since I was planning to purchase a new drive shaft, I would have the option of moving the engine back a few
inches if needed as long as I didn't obstruct the exhaust system.

Removing the old engine sounds like a big task, but it really isn't bad. Disconnecting everything is pretty straightforward. It took about
three hours. About 1 hour of that time was spent with a spray can of PB Blaster and a breaker bar with 15/16" socket to disconnect the
engine mounts. Had I planned better, I would have sprayed the nuts the day before and let the oil do its magic. They didn't look bad,
so I just assumed they would come out without a fuss.

I'm lucky enough to have access to a small crane at my yacht club that was used to hoist the engine. I removed the alternator and two
engine mounts from the engine. I had one other person help jockey the engine through the hatch. It was a tight fit. It took an hour to
remove the engine. It took an additional hour to put the tools away and close up the engine box.

After cleaning up most of the goop accumulated over the past few years, I had a chance to inspect the engine bed. The first thing I
noticed is that there appears to have been a different engine bed that was removed long ago, probably when the boat was built. The
other bed was about a foot forward. I have hull #47, so I don't know if they changed the engine bed with my hull, or if they changed
something during construction; perhaps my hull started life as a 422.

The fasteners for the engine mounts can be accessed from underneath. A small section of the starboard engine bed had been cut away
at some point to allow access with a wrench. I pulled the engine many years ago. I didn't replace the mounts at that point in time.

Both sided of the mounting bed show signs of crazing where a bend is made from the inside to the top face. Each side sags outward
about 1/4". The top of the engine bed looks like it should sit on some fiberglass stringers on each side of the pan. There was a small
space between the pan and the top of the stringers though. I'm not sure why they sagged. Perhaps they needed to be shimmed tight
to the top of the stringers. I won't really know what I have until I remove various hoses and cables that obscure the outside of the
pan. As mentioned earlier, I'll probably bolt steel angle iron on top of the old pan, but that is still to be worked out.

I put the old engine and considerable set spare parts up for sale. This offset the cost of the repower effort by about $1000. Most
individual parts such as the water pumps, starter, and manifold would cost more than half this.